Morningside Heights - New York, NY Area Guide

Though Dutch immigrants settled the neighboring Upper West Side in the early 1600s, the land that comprises Morningside Heights remained relatively untouched until the early 19th century. In 1821, the Bloomingdale Insane Asylum opened in the neighborhood with the idea that city views and the relatively bucolic setting would benefit inmates. Along with the Leake and Watts Orphan Asylum, which opened in 1843, this institution dominated the area for decades.

By 1900, both asylums had sold their land to make way for Columbia University’s relocation and the construction of the Cathedral of Saint John the Divine, which became one of the largest churches in the world. Taken together with construction of the subway along Broadway and the development of Morningside and Riverside Parks, these events triggered a residential building boom that lasted through 1915. By this time the area had transformed into a solidly middle-class neighborhood, with the priciest residences along Riverside Park. Despite another growth spurt in the 1950s, the residential character of Morningside Heights has remained.

Each fall, area residents gather together for Morningside Lights, a week-long festival featuring free community arts workshops. Sponsored in part by Columbia University, the event strengthens ties between the school and the community and introduces expert artistic techniques to art lovers of all ages.

Although not at the heart of the flashy New York culinary scene, Morningside Heights offers plenty of neighborhood favorites for residents and visitors who travel off the beaten track. Broadway acts as the major thoroughfare and features many of the best restaurant finds. The area’s sleepy character means night owls may have to look elsewhere for nightlife, though there are a few college bars in the neighborhood.

Beloved by area residents, Pisticci on La Salle Street at Broadway serves casual Italian fare with a focus on local, seasonal ingredients. The pasta serves as the main draw, and regulars swoon over the lamb ragu, featuring maltagliati served with fresh spinach and cheese. Diners appreciate Pisticci’s commitment to the neighborhood; the walls feature art from local artists, and the owners have made the restaurant 100 percent carbon neutral.

For a taste of Japanese cuisine, head north on Broadway to Jin Ramen. With dishes as expertly prepared as any of the trendier ramen joints downtown -- but with far shorter wait times -- the restaurant provides a chill hangout for area residents. Visit during happy hour for deals on beer, sake and plum wine, and try the Tonkotsu Ramen, made rich and brothy by boiling pork bones for hours on end.

If you’re looking for a snack and a caffeinated pick-me-up at any hour of the day, head down to the Hungarian Pastry Shop on Amsterdam Avenue across the street from the Cathedral of Saint John the Divine. A favorite among Columbia students, this perpetually packed cafe serves old-world pastries alongside American coffee. Make sure to keep your ears open; you’re sure to find an opportunity for philosophical discussion with students who don’t mind putting off their homework until later.

In terms of college bars, Lion's Head Tavern on Amsterdam has dollar beers on Wednesday nights, which draws a large crowd of students. It's also a good place to go to watch a game on the weekend. Across the street, Pour House, a local chain, has an extensive beer list. The diviest bar in the neighborhood is without a doubt 1020 located at 1020 Amsterdam. It's a little rundown, but it still gets jam-packed with students, who go there for cheap beers and the laid back atmosphere.

While you could happily spend the majority of your waking hours in Morningside Heights running errands on foot to fulfill all of your daily needs, extensive and reliable mass transit systems make for easy access to the rest of the city. The Metropolitan Transportation Authority (MTA) operates a 24-hour subway system, and the 1 train runs through the heart of the neighborhood, with four more train lines (A, B, C and D) just to the east. Commuters also have access to numerous bus routes running both cross-town and in a north-south direction.

In warmer months bicycles prove popular, and bikers find plenty of racks throughout the neighborhood. Over in Riverside Park, a paved path runs all the way south to 59th Street and connects with the Hudson River Park Bikeway, the busiest such bikeway in the United States.

With a high population density and limited street space, driving a car in the neighborhood is not recommended. Car owners can find street parking, but competition is steep and weekly street cleaning means you can’t leave your car unattended for long. Parking garages also exist for those willing to pay.

Flanked by two world-class parks, Morningside Heights offers residents plenty of opportunities for escape. Originally opened in the late 19th century, Morningside Park covers more than 30 acres and features a waterfall, cliff-like rock face, various playgrounds and athletic facilities.

At the western edge of the neighborhood, the equally beautiful Riverside Park runs along the Hudson. It features breathtaking views of the river and, at Riverside Drive and West 122nd Street, the General Grant National Memorial. More commonly known as Grant’s Tomb, the memorial is the final resting place of President Ulysses S. Grant and his wife, Julia. Every summer, the entirety of Riverside Park plays host to Summer on the Hudson, an outdoor festival featuring events such as music concerts, dance performances and wellness activities.

The cost of living in Morningside Heights skews higher than New York City at large and other neighborhoods in the uptown area, in part because of the built-in demand from professors and students. Renters can find one-bedroom apartments for as low as $1,500, though rents increase exponentially from there.

The overall desirability of the neighborhood and high commercial rents drive prices for groceries and other everyday items higher. However, residents would point out the walkability of the neighborhood cuts back on transportation costs, and the convenience of amenities is priceless.

Though not a shopping destination for those outside the neighborhood, Morningside Heights offers a number of notable options. Clothing store chains such as American Apparel coexist with thrifts shops and bookstores alike. For an intellectual fix, visit Book Culture on West 112th Street. This independently-owned bookstore features all of the variety one would expect with Columbia University so close. Customers particularly praise the ample seating and the letter-writing desk upstairs, where you can catch up on your correspondence by writing an old-fashioned letter and mailing it anywhere in the world.

Just around the corner at University Housewares, you can pick up all of your household needs, from ice cube trays to floor lamps, in a welcoming mom-and-pop environment. Serving the community since 1938, University Housewares regularly beats big box stores when it comes to pricing, all at a convenient location in the heart of the neighborhood.

Residents seeking groceries and everyday items find various options, including chains such as Westside Market and specialty stores such as M2M, which provides hard-to-find Asian ingredients. Food lovers in search of farm-fresh fare should mark their calendars for the Columbia Greenmarket, held Thursdays and Sundays year-round.