Chinatown - San Francisco, CA Area Guide

San Francisco’s Chinatown is the most densely populated area west of Manhattan, with nearly 15,000 residents living in a 24-block area. After its founding in 1848, Chinese immigrants from Guangdong Province began to flood west, through the early 1900s. Racial tensions began after the Panic of 1873, and community leaders began to organize its residents so their voices could be heard.

Though much of the area was destroyed in the 1906 earthquake, Chinatown continued to attract many immigrants who began arriving in very large numbers through the 1960s, facilitated by the passage of the War Brides Act, which allowed Chinese-American veterans to bring their families from China. In fact, so many eventually came to San Francisco that other Chinese enclaves were established in Richmond, Sunset and Visitacion Valley.

Today, Chinatown’s Portsmouth Square features Chinese men playing chess and doing tai chi. A statue of the Goddess of Democracy, originally used in the Tiananmen Square protest, was built and installed in 1999.

Though it has undergone some cultural shifts, Chinatown is considered a tight-knit community intent on preserving its roots. Notable residents include John C. Young, a U.S. army colonel and Chinatown leader.

Chinatown doesn’t have any museums per se, but several smaller galleries and spaces cater to the arts. Seachampa is a cultural center teaching languages and offering art events and classes, while Leung's White Crane Dragon and Lion Dance Association handles martial arts, performance and gorgeously ornate costumes for many of Chinatown’s parades and other events.

The most famous annual event is the New Year Festival and Parade, combining the traditional Chinese Lantern Festival with a typical American parade. Enchanting, raucous and fun, it’s a day of pageantry that few will ever forget.

The obvious restaurant choice in Chinatown would, of course, be Chinese food, and that wouldn't be a regrettable decision to make. Within Chinatown's 24-block radius, locals have dozens of options.

Delicious Dim Sum is a popular local spot for dim sum or small plates of amazing Chinese fare. Insiders know to wait for the chive dumplings and har gao. Good Mong Kok Bakery may sound like more of a breakfast joint, but this place has a full menu of delicious goodies. From the steamed barbecue pork buns to red bean sesame balls, you will be thankful you made the effort to go out of your comfort zone. Prices are so cheap here that even if you don't like something, you won't feel compelled to eat it anyway. Golden Star Vietnamese Restaurant provides a welcome change of pace. Locals love the pho with beef balls and the five spice chicken, but they also enjoy the rice and noodle dishes.

After hours, Chinatown may seem sleepy as the shops close down, but several beloved bars are just opening their doors at that hour. Since it borders on nearby North Beach, known for hard partying since the Beat days, this neighborhood can more than hold its own in the nightlife department.

The Hancock Room serves up a menu of creative drinks and excellent music in a cozy environment, perfect for birthday parties or small get-togethers. The Revolutionary War-themed decor and spirits make it a true find even in a city full of originals. The Li Po Cocktail Lounge is one of the only places offering live music, not to mention fiercely strong mai tais. Celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain has slammed back a few here, making it that much more appealing to visitors. Nearby North Beach and Union Square have additional choices for live music.

Chinatown does have several clubs, mostly clustered around Kearny Street to the east. Kung Pao Kosher Comedy somehow manages to do the impossible: mix Asian and Jewish humor in one spot.

San Francisco provides difficulty when it comes to driving and parking, and this is especially true in densely populated Chinatown. Where it can be found, parking is expensive, though the best bet is usually the garage under Portsmouth Square.

The city’s excellent public transportation system has several Muni buses and cable cars in the area, as well as cable cars a few blocks to the west. It’s a very walkable neighborhood, despite several hills and narrow sidewalks.

Cabs are easy to hail, and Uber serves all parts of San Francisco. Chinatown isn’t very freeway accessible, but a few blocks south is Market Street, which can connect you with the 80, Bay Bridge and East Bay.

Many areas of Chinatown have bike lanes, with more being added soon. Hills, traffic and the crowded nature of this neighborhood may make biking difficult.

Portsmouth Square is the most popular park in Chinatown, as it is a great spot for people watching, chess, and tai chi and has a playground for the little ones. Though it can get crowded, especially around lunchtime during weekdays, smaller spaces like Empire Park, with its relaxing benches, and Saint Mary’s Square can give you a place to rest, get lost in thought or even meditate your cares away.

All parks are kid- and dog-friendly and encourage fitness and exercise as long as you’re aware of other park users. Portsmouth Square also plays host to the annual Ping Pong Festival, happening in August.

Chinatown’s approximately 100,000 residents earn a lower average wage than the San Francisco norm, and housing prices reflect this. A typical one-bedroom apartment rents for approximately $3,500 per month.

Overall, the rents and associated costs of living are lower in Chinatown, which has made the housing market very competitive. The lower costs tend to be reflected in lower overall costs for food and entertainment.

Since Chinatown qualifies as a lower-rent area, it does not support high-end or luxury shopping like neighboring Nob Hill. Check out Canton Bazaar, a multi-level shop specializing in souvenirs, tea and jewelry, and don't forget the Far East Flea Market, which provides the perfect finds for bargain hunters seeking unique trinkets or kitchen essentials.

Small grocery purveyors cater to the Chinese families in the neighborhood with specialty goods, including Ming Lee Trading and Mow Lee Shing Kee & Company. These two places always overflow with locals seeking groceries and other household items. The closest farmers market sits at the Crocker Galleria, a light-filled mall pavilion in the financial district. The market operates year-round every Thursday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., making it the perfect place to spend your lunch hour and find heirloom fruit varieties, Mission figs, heirloom tomatoes, blackberries, blueberries and organic strawberries.